Vilnius, Lithuania

Although the term may have originated in the Czech Republic, Absurdistan seems the most accurate description of Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania.



From snarling furnaces to ridiculously mustachioed men, the scenery was surreal and the activities bizarre. For example, Andy and I were eating our standard dinner of bread, cheese, and tomatoes when we noticed a little old woman stealing flowers from a soviet era statue to make the perfect bouquet for her man, Jesus.


We spent most of our time in (the Republic of) Uzupis, a secessionist district in Vilnius with its own flag, president, constitution, and army.

Much like Christiana in Copenhagen, Uzupis is the center of artistic life, as well as a meeting place for the city's drunks and homeless. There are several studios and galleries as well as overpopulated squats and trendy cafes.



Separated from the city center by the Vilnia river, almost all of the art was temporary. One day an entire furniture set (sofa, love seat, recliner) appeared in the river, as if someone didn't know what else to do when their old furniture didn't match the ambiance of their new home.





As if the circumstances weren't odd enough, we ended our stay in Lithuania with the most uncomfortable bus ride Andy had ever experienced (I've seen worse). Our 1970s era bus wasn't designed with opening windows because it featured air conditioning. Unfortunately, the air conditioning wasn't working for our 8 or 9 hour bus ride back to Warsaw. The bus driver also stopped at his leisure (to buy berries from a stand on the side of the road, or to treat his son to a popsicle and an arcade game) leaving Andy and I suffering inside the bus or under the searing sun. Andy repeatedly poured a liter of water over his head to stay cool.


The pace was a little slower in Vilnius. Our trip was relaxed, we didn't bother to see any monuments and spent most of our time just 'hanging out'. The grocery stores sucked, and the mosquitos were ridiculous, but I enjoyed the break from intensive travel. And we hardly met any other Americans!

Older Riga

Wow. A little late for a smooth follow up. Sorry. Next to Prague, Riga has the largest collection of original Art Nouveau buildings in Eastern Europe. Although the buildings are largely restricted to three main streets just outside of the city center, the ability to leisurely stroll the streets and really examine the architecture makes the art nouveau of Riga infinitely more enjoyable than the crowded streets of Josefov in the grown-up Disneyland that is Prague.







As highly esteemed as it may be, I question the validity of some of the architecture. For example, I was under the impression that Egyptian themes were more art deco, as exemplified by the Paramount Theater in Oakland; but one of these buildings had a sphinx at the entrance. Maybe I'm just being too restrictive and I should give them the benefit of the doubt; either way, these are definitely some of the most hideously gaudy buildings I have ever seen.